What does jewellery’s future look like without gold?

A panel talk in February 2026 will explore how jewellers are turning to alternative materials due to the price of gold

By Amy Wakeham

Recent global events have caused the cost of gold to creep higher than ever before (listen to Rachael Taylor in conversation with Anita Rani on the subject on BBC Women’s Hour here). 

The price rise is especially difficult for jewellers, many of whom rely on the material for their designs – Ute Decker, whom the BBC team spoke to at the Goldsmiths Fair, reported worrying that gold will price itself out of the reach of many designers altogether. 

Crystalline Crater earrings by Alice Fry, in anodised niobium

Insights into innovation

But the development has also supercharged innovation within the industry, leading designers – especially emerging and independent makers – to experiment with all-new precious and non-precious alloys. 


For the Goldsmiths’ Centre’s February Creative Links talk, Rachael will host a panel discussion on the rise of alternative metals in jewellery. She’ll be joined by designers Sara Chyan, Alice Fry, Ebba Goring, and Sia Taylor, and together they’ll discuss the impact of rising gold prices on independent makers, how it has led to new material innovations, and the alternatives on offer for jewellery makers. The panellists will also explore how the use of non-gold metals will impact the jewellery landscape over the short and long term, and how it presents an opportunity for the concept of luxury to be challenged and redefined.

Regency pendant by Ebba Goring, made from iolite set in silver with a twilight blue nano-ceramic coating

The talk will be held over Zoom, and preceded by a networking session. Afterwards, the panel will answer any questions the audience may have. Monday 23rd February 2026, 6-8pm. From £7. Book your space here

Main image: Moonlight choker by Sara Chyan, made from crystallised bismuth